Jonathan Sugarman, a 69-year-old American mountaineer, died on Mount Everest during an acclimatisation rotation at an altitude of around 6,400 metres (21,000 feet). His death marks the fourth fatality on the world’s highest peak this climbing season.
Sugarman was part of an expedition organised by Beyul Adventure, a local partner of US-based expedition organiser International Mountain Guides.
According to Pasang Tshering Sherpa of Beyul Adventure, Sugarman was feeling unwell and passed away at Camp 2.
Efforts to retrieve his body are ongoing but have been hampered by adverse weather conditions.
Last month, three Nepali climbers died while crossing the Khumbu icefall during a supply mission.
Nepali guides, usually ethnic Sherpas from nearby valleys, are essential to the multimillion-dollar industry, bearing huge risks to prepare climbing routes and carry food and equipment.
This year, Nepal issued 466 permits to foreign climbers, and over 900 people will attempt to summit Everest before the climbing season ends in early June.
Concerns have been raised over the possibility of heavy traffic and bottlenecks en route to the summit, which could be exacerbated by unfavourable weather.
On average, five climbers die each year on the world’s highest peak. However, in 2019, 11 people died, with overcrowding identified as a contributing factor in four of those deaths.
Climate change may also be exacerbating the risks on Everest. Climbers have reported widening crevasses, running water on previously snowy slopes, and increased formation of glacial lakes. Nepal is home to eight of the world’s 10 highest peaks and welcomes hundreds of adventurers each spring when temperatures are warm and winds are typically calm.
Over 600 climbers are attempting to summit other Himalayan mountains this season. Last month, Northern Irish climber Noel Hanna died on Annapurna, the world’s 10th highest mountain. The 56-year-old adventurer died at Camp 4 after returning from a successful summit.